Custom 6-Switch Panel
    In order to control the new ARB air lockers and the York air compressor I installed, I needed to add 3 switches to my instrument panel/dashboard area.  With the older CJs and YJs, this is a pretty easy task...just find an open space on the lower dash , drill a hole, and add a switch.  But the TJ, with its curved dash just didn't lend itself to adding switches this way.  I wanted to add switches in a way that looked stock and remained functional.  Paul Davidson suggested I use the existing switch locations, but I couldn't do that and still maintain control of the rear window wiper and rear window defroster.  So I decided the only recourse was to fabricate a custom 6-switch panel to replace the existing 3-switch panel and ashtray.

    To do the work you'll need the following items:

 
3-switch bezel - P/N 56007314AB
Fog light switches - P/N 56007247.  It is essential that you use this switch since it is the only on-off switch available.
Epoxy cement
Scrap metal strip for bracing and L-bracket
Small screw and nut
 
    You will also need:
 
Rotary tool (Dremmel tool)
3/8" electric drill and bits
Basic hand tools
 
    Here are the steps I followed.  If you are attempting to duplicate this modification, you might decide to do it differently, but this way worked well for me.
 
1.  Remove the center dash bezel.  This requires you remove the defroster grate, 2 screws at the top of the bezel, and one screw behind the ashtray.
2.  Remove the 3-switch panel and disconnect the electrical connections.  There are 4 screws and up to 4 connections (lighter, rear wiper, rear defroster, and fog lights. 
3.  Cut away the support for the ashtray in the center dash bezel.  Be careful to remove only the minimum amount of plastic necessary....too much and there will be a gap around the switch panel later.  
 
    Here are 2 detail shots of the center dash bezel with the ashtray support removed.  The first is viewed from the front and the second from behind:

 

 
 
 
4.  Cut the left side support from the new 3-switch panel.  Again, cut the area away a small portion at a tim and keep test fitting the two pieces together.  Leave enough of the side support to allow the pieces to be glued together. 
5.  Cut the rearmost 1" from the right side support.  You will be adding a bracket here later, but the existing bracket is too long to fit properly on the dash. 
6.  Glue the newly cut panel to the right side of the original panel.  Use 2 long 1x1" blocks of wood to support the top and bottom edges of the panels to keep them aligned.  Slide the panels together and use a small amount of epoxy to hold them together temporarily.
7.  Once dried, test fit the new 6-switch panel in the opening of the center dash bezel.  Trim the center dash bezel or separate the 2 panels and re-trim them to insure a tight, gap free fit.
 
    Here's a detail shot of the combined panel:

 

 
 
8.  Once the fit is right, reinforce the panel with a piece of metal (I used a long screw with the head cut off) and use lots of epoxy for strength.  I also added a bead of black RTV in the gap between the 2 panels to give it a finished look.
 
    Here's a detail shot of the reinforced backside of the new 6-switch panel.  Notice also how the center rib of the panel has been clearanced to allow the wires to pass to the switches: 
 
 
 
9.  Drill a small hole in the right side support about 1/2" from the edge.
10.  Using a small piece of scrap steel, make an L-bracket about 1/2" x 1" long.  Drill a hole in the 1/2" side and cut a slot in the 1" side. 
11.  Loosely screw the slotted side of the L-bracket to the right side support.  Test fit the bracket to the dash and mark a location for a screw hole to attach the L-bracket.  Mark the bracket, tighten the screw, and epoxy the bracket to the side support. 
 
    Here's a detail shot of the L-bracket screwed and glued to the side support:

 

 
 
12.  Install the new switches in the panel.  You will have to cut/grind the tab from the switch to allow it to slide in place.
13.  Cut a small amount of the soft plastic from the dash to allow the wires to stretch to the new switch location. 
14.  Connect the wires and reinstall the switch panel.  Reinstall the center dash cover and defroster grate.
 
    Here's What it looks like once everything is reinstalled:

 

 
 
    When I first decided to modify the switch panel this way, I figured it would be a quick and easy job, but in reality, it was tedious and time consuming.  But, the results were well worth the trouble and effort.  Any patient person could duplicate this setup in about 5 hours.